Homespun "Crocheted" Doll Blanket - Free Pattern

A few weeks ago, I felt the need to make a crocheted version of the Homespun Knitted Doll Blanket.

I gathered up a bag of mismatched, but somehow related, yarn balls and set to work.

I used a size K crochet hook and started out with a ch of 58. Then it was "sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in each ch across". "Ch 1, turn. sc in each st across". Repeat each row until you have the desired length. The border/edging is a basic sc worked in each st around, with 3 sc in each corner st. I worked several rows of this. Then, I wove in the ends and it was finished. TaDa!!!! Another lovely little doll blanket pattern to share. Hope you like it. :)

Softball Earwarmer - Free Pattern

I finished up the 2nd Softball Earwarmer this morning.

 I wish I had a photo of Small T wearing one of them, but she's at school.  So this will have to do for now.

These are really quick and easy to work up.  I wrote the pattern down as I made the 2nd one, so now I can share it with you.  Here you go:

Softball Earwarmer - Free Crochet Pattern

WW yarn (I used Red Heart Super Saver in Bright Yellow and also Cherry Red for the "stitches")

size H crochet hook

yarn needle for weaving in ends and for making the "stitches"

ch 72, a little looser than you normally would make your chains, join to the 1st st with a sl st, being careful not to twist the ch.

Round 1- ch 2.  hdc in each st around.  join with a sl st to the 2nd ch of the beg ch 2.

Rounds 2 thru 6 - repeat Round 1.

Round 7 - (this begins the edging) - ch 1, rev sc in each st around.  fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

Now we'll work the edging on the other side of the earwarmer.

Attach yarn in any stitch along the edge.  Ch 1, rev sc in each st around.  fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

For the red "stitches" running down the center of the earwarmer, cut a long piece of red yarn.  thread it on the yarn needle.  Using the "holes" running down the center of the earwarmer, start the stitches.

There will be 2 "holes" between the base of each stitch.  I worked the stitches as you see in the above photo, doing one side and when I finish those, I worked the other side.  When you are finished, weave in the yarn ends.
And that's the pattern.
I hope everyone enjoys this free pattern.  Feel free to make as many of these as you want for yourself or for profit.  Please don't claim the pattern as your own though.  Please link back here and give me the credit for that if you would.  :)

Grape Scarf - Stash-busting For Stashaholics

Last night, I finished the Grape Scarf.

 Little Ty really likes the color and is doing a good job of modelling the scarf for me.  lol

I had thought everyone was asleep and was trying to get a photo of myself wearing it when Little Ty caught me.  He thought that was funny so he ended up being my model instead.

The scarf is made with two skeins of Grape Simply Soft yarn out of my stash, (making this a Stash-busting For Stashaholics project).  I used a size K crochet hook.  The scarf pattern is just a basic one.  Since I wanted it longer, I chained 180.  Hdc in 3rd st from hook and in each st across.  At the end of the row, ch 2, hdc in each st across.  I did this for 10 rows.  Then I finished it off and wove in the ends.  For the fringe, I cut 6 pieces of yarn the same length.  Then I added 6 fringe sections (each section consists of 6 pieces of yarn) to each end of the scarf.  That's it.

Hackey Sack - Free Pattern - Stash Buster Project

I made some Hackey Sacks for a few young guys in my family for Christmas.  I used some of the Peaches & Creme 4 ply cotton (worsted weight) out of my stash for these, so that makes them Stash Buster Projects!!!!!!!!!  Woo Hoo!!!!!!  It's a very simple pattern and I'm sharing it at the bottom of this post.

 I had Medium J (my resident hackey sack guy) take one outside and mess around with it so I would know if it was the right size and weight.  He said it's "good".

 They fit right in the palm of your hand.  Not too big, not too small.

These are the ones I've made so far.  I'm pretty much known in the family for making these and I get requests all the time.  So...after a few years of not making any, the guys are going to be pleasantly surprised, I hope.

Hackey Sack - free pattern

WW crochet cotton

size G crochet hook

filler - I used a bag of great northern dried beans from my pantry

yarn needle.

1- ch 2.  work 6 sc in the 2nd ch from hook.  join with a sl st to 1st sc. (6 sc)

2-  ch 1.  work 2 sc in each st around.  join with a sl st to 1st sc.  (12 sc)

3-  ch 1.  work 2 sc in the first st, sc in the next st, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around.  join with a sl st to 1st sc.  (18 sc)

4-  ch 1.  work 2 sc in the first st, sc in each of the next 2 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2 sts; repeat from * around.  join with a sl st to 1st sc.  (24 sc)

5 thru 7- ch 1.  sc in each st around.  join with a sl st to 1st sc.  (24 sc)

8- ch 1.  *sc2tog, sc in each of the next 2 sts; repeat from * around.  join with a sl st to 1st sc.  (18 sc)

(I filled the hackey sack at this point.  don't fill it completely full though.  leave some gap for the beans to move around.  you can always add a few more beans before closing it completely off if you don't have enough in it.)

9- ch 1.  *sc2tog, sc in next st; repeat from * around.  join with a sl st to 1st sc.  (12 sc)

10- ch 1, *sc2tog; repeat from * around.  join with a sl st to 1st sc.  (6 sc)

fasten off, leaving about 6 inches of cotton to work with.  thread the end of the cotton onto a yarn needle.  weave the cotton through the last round of stitches and pull to close the "hole".  weave in the cotton to secure and fasten off.  that's it.  you've now finished the hackey sack.  :)

This and That

As always, things are hectic around here.  I've been working at the farm again (and I've been sick) so my yarn time has taken a huge hit (yet again).

 I've been working on this set of Grey Heather Wrist Warmers for a little bit now.  I need to spend today with them.  They are begging for my attention.  lol

 Last night, I finished the rest of my sister's Christmas gift from me.  This hat and scarf will go with the chocolate brown wrist warmers I knitted recently.  

I used this pattern for the scarf.  It's called "The Free Crochet Scarf Pattern".  :)  Since I didn't have any chunky yarn, I held 2 strands of my yarn together.  I was using Caron's Simply Soft yarn in Chocolate and a size N crochet hook.

For the hat, I just made up my own pattern and added a pom pom to the top.  My sister is always "freezing to death" so I held 2 strands of the chocolate Simply Soft yarn together while making this.  I used a size K crochet hook.   Here's what I did.

Basic Pom Pom Hat

starting with a magic circle, ch 2, work 11 hdc in ring.  join with a sl st to beg ch 2.  pull to tighten.

ch 2, hdc in same st, work 2 hdc in each st around, join with a sl st to beg ch 2.

ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in next st, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st; repeat around.  join with sl st to beg ch 2.

ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in each of next 2 sts, *2 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 2 sts; repeat around.  join with a sl st to beg ch 2.

ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in each of next 3 sts, *2hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 3 sts; repeat around.  join with a sl st to beg ch 2.

now....ch 2, work 1 hdc in each st around.  join with a sl st to beg ch 2.  repeat this row until the hat is as long as you want it.  (I worked this row 12 times)

finishing, last row, ch 1, rev sc in each st around.  sl st to join.  fasten off and weave in ends.

make a pom pom and attach to the top of the hat.

that's it.

 Since it's been an incredibly taxing week for me physically, I was off to the my friend's salon for a wax (brows and lip), nail fill in and polish, 

mini pedicure and polish.  Pure Heaven.  Except for the wax.  I don't care for those much.

My fingernails are a sparkly blue or orange and my toenails are my favorite purple.  :)  I justified my time at the salon (and the money) simply because I only go once a month for all this pampering.  The rest of the time I do it myself.  Plus, I wanted my nails to look "spectacular" in case of surgery.  :)

So, that's been my week in a very basic manner.  I decided to only share the "good stuff".  lol

Jack O'Lantern Bunting - Free Pattern - Stash Buster Project

I needed something colorful to add to the right side of my front porch that was a Halloween project.  I thought about it and thought about it and decided to whip out some Jack O'Lantern squares to make a bunting.  I decided on the Jack O'Lantern because I wanted to use orange yarn instead of yellow.  lol  Crazy, right?  I'm just glad that I'm using up the yarn in my stash and also having fun making some decorations for my yard and home.  :)

 The first square in design mode.

 The last square that I stitched together.

  The finished bunting before hanging up.

What it looks like on my front porch.  I think I need to tweak it a bit yet.  I just hung it up and since it's going on midnight, it's obviously dark outside.  Oh well, it still looks pretty good.

Jack O'Lantern Bunting - Free Pattern

Red Heart WW yarn in Pumpkin and Black

size I crochet hook

yarn needle for weaving in ends

Squares (make 4)

with orange yarn, ch 20.

1- sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. 

2- ch 1, turn.  sc in each st across.

3 thru 20- repeat row 2.

at the end of row 20, do NOT fasten off, ch 1, work 2 sc in corner st, sc evenly down the side, work 3 sc in corner st, sc evenly across the bottom, work 3 sc in corner st, sc evenly up the side, work 3 sc in corner st, sc evenly across the top, work 1 sc in the corner st and join with a sl st to 1st sc made.  fasten off, weave in ends.

Eyes (make 8)

leaving a tail for sewing and with black yarn, ch 7.

1- sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across.  (6)

2- ch 1, turn.  sc dec, sc in next 2 sts, sc dec.  (4)

3- ch 1, turn.  (sc dec) twice.

4-  ch 1, turn.  sc dec.  fasten off yarn, weave in THIS end.

Mouth (make 4)

leaving a tail for sewing and with black yarn, ch 16.

1- dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in next ch, ch 2, sl st in next 3 chs, ch 2, dc in next 2 chs, ch 2, sl st in next 3 chs, ch 2, dc in next 2 chs, ch 2, sl st in last ch.  DO NOT FASTEN OFF, turn work upside down and work along the bottom of the chs.  sl st in next 3 chs, ch 2, dc in next ch, ch 2, sl st in next 4 chs, ch 2, dc in next ch, ch 2, sl st in next 3 chs.  fasten off yarn.  leave the tails for sewing.

Position the eyes and mouth where you want them on the squares.  Use the yarn tails and the yarn needle to sew the eyes and mouth to the squares.  

To attach the squares together, I held one strand each of the black and orange yarn together then...ch 50, sc evenly across the top of the 1st square, ch 15, sc evenly across the top of the 2nd square, ch 15, sc evenly across the top of the 3rd square, ch 15, sc evenly across the top of the 4th square, ch 50.  fasten off yarn.

Fire Dept. Afghan - Written Out Pattern

As promised, here are the written out instructions for the Fire Dept. Afghan.
I have fixed the pattern and the E in RESCUE should not be messed up anymore.

Abbreviations:
W means white yarn
R means red yarn

All stitches are hdc stitches.

At the end of each row, ch 2 and turn.

NOTE:  Row 1:  work 105W means work 105 white hdc which is 1 hdc in each st across.
Row 22 reads work 11 White hdc, 33 Red hdc, 4 White hdc, 11 Red hdc, 3 White hdc, 32 Red hdc, and 11 White hdc.

With white, ch 107 (105 plus 2 for turning)

1 thru 20-  work 105W

21- work 105 W

22- 11W, 33R, 4W, 11R, 3W, 32R, 11W

23- 11W, 30R, 2W, 17R, 3W, 31R, 11W

24- 11W, 30R, 2W, 21R, 2W, 28R, 11W

25- 11W, 26R, 3W, 24R, 2W, 28R, 11W

26- 11W, 12R, 5W, 10R, 2W, 27R, 2W, 25R, 11W

27- 11W, 10R, 4W, 9R, 2W, 11R, 2W, 4R, 3W, 11R, 11W, 3R, 1W, 12R, 11W

28- 11W, 12R, 1W, 6R, 5W, 8R, 3W, 1R, 6W, 2R, 5W, 10R, 10W, 4R, 1W, 9R, 11W

29- 11W, 9R, 2W, 5R, 4W, 9R, 3W, 2R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 1R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 2R, 5W, 15R, 1W, 13R, 11W

30- 11W, 14R, 1W, 12R, 1W, 1R, 2W, 7R, 3W, 2R, 2W, 6R, 5W, 15R, 2W, 10R, 11W

31- 11W, 11R, 2W, 14R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 5R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 2R, 5W, 2R, 2W, 10R, 1W, 15R, 11W

32- 11W, 6R, 3W, 7R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 2R, 3W, 3R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 1R, 3W, 1R, 2W, 1R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 9R, 2W, 12R, 11W

33- 11W, 4R, 2W, 7R, 2W, 6R, 4W, 2R, 2W, 3R, 2W, 1R, 4W, 3R, 4W, 1R, 3W, 1R, 2W, 1R, 3W,   1R, 3W, 4R, 1W, 7R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 6R, 11W

34- 11W, 6R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 7R, 1W, 4R, 12W, 14R, 2W, 2R, 3W, 1R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 4R, 11W

35- 11W, 4R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 3R, 1W, 2R, 4W, 1R, 2W, 23R, 2W, 2R, 3W, 3R, 1W, 7R, 2W, 3R, 1W, 6R, 11W

36- 11W, 6R, 1W, 4R, 2W, 7R, 1W, 3R, 5W, 25R, 1W, 1R, 2W, 1R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 3R, 1W, 4R, 11W

37- 11W, 4R, 1W, 4R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 3R, 1W, 1R, 3W, 8R, 11W, 10R, 3W, 2R, 1W, 7R, 2W, 4R, 1W, 7R, 11W

38- 11W, 7R, 1W, 5R, 2W, 7R, 1W, 11R, 5W, 7R, 5W, 6R, 3W, 3R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 4R, 11W

39- 11W, 5R, 1W, 5R, 2W, 7R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 5R, 3W, 17R, 3W, 7R, 1W, 7R, 2W, 6R, 1W, 7R, 11W

40- 11W, 7R, 1W, 7R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 4R, 3W, 21R, 3W, 5R, 1W, 7R, 2W, 6R, 1W, 5R, 11W

41- 11W, 5R, 1W, 7R, 2W, 7R, 1W, 3R, 2W, 7R, 10W, 8R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 8R, 1W, 7R, 11W

42- 11W, 7R, 1W, 9R, 2W, 6R, 3W, 8R, 2W, 3R, 5W, 2R, 2W, 6R, 4W, 7R, 2W, 8R, 1W, 5R, 11W

43- 11W, 5R, 1W, 9R, 2W, 7R, 1W, 7R, 1W, 14R, 1W, 8R, 1W, 6R, 2W, 10R, 1W, 7R, 11W

44- 11W, 7R, 1W, 11R, 2W, 15R, 1W, 12R, 1W, 15R, 2W, 10R, 1W, 5R, 11W

45-  11W, 5R, 1W, 11R, 2W, 15R, 1W, 10R, 1W, 15R, 2W, 12R, 1W, 7R, 11W

46- 11W, 6R, 2W, 13R, 2W, 5R, 2W, 8R, 10W, 7R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 12R, 1W, 5R, 11W

47- 11W, 4R, 2W, 13R, 2W, 5R, 1W, 1R, 2W, 5R, 9W, 8R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 5R, 2W, 14R, 1W, 6R, 11W

48- 11W, 5R, 1W, 15R, 1W, 7R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 7R, 8W, 5R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 7R, 1W, 14R, 1W, 4R, 11W

49- 11W, 3R, 2W, 13R, 2W, 8R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 9R, 1W, 14R, 2W, 4R, 11W

50- 11W, 4R, 1W, 14R, 2W, 10R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 1R, 3W, 2R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 3R, 1W, 8R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 3R, 11W

51- 11W, 2R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 7R, 2W, 3R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 2R, 8W, 5R, 2W, 12R, 1W, 14R, 2W, 3R, 11W

52- 11W, 3R, 1W, 14R, 2W, 12R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 4R, 8W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 7R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 1R, 11W

53- 11W, 1R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 7R, 1W, 5R, 2W, 1R, 3W, 2R, 1W, 1R, W, 1R, 2W, 6R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 4R, 9W, 1R, 1W, 14R, 2W, 2R, 11W

54- 11W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 5W, 6R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 1R, 8W, 2R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 8R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 1R, 11W

55- 12W, 4R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 9R, 1W, 1R, 19W, 7R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 5R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 4R, 2W, 1R, 11W

56- 11W, 1R, 1W, 4R, 3W, 1R, 3W, 4R, 1W, 3R, 6W, 1R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 23R, 1W, 10R, 2W, 5R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 4R, 12W

57- 12W, 4R, 5W, 5R, 2W, 9R, 1W, 1R, 2W, 2R, 3W, 15R, 2W, 2R, 1W, 1R, 3W, 2R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 1R, 11W

58- 11W, 1R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 2R, 3W, 1R, 2W, 11R, 3W, 5R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 10R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 6R, 11W

59- 11W, 6R, 5W, 4R, 1W, 10R, 1W, 7R, 1W, 2R, 3W, 5R, 3W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 3R, 3W, 4R, 13W

60-  12W, 5R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 3R, 2W, 3R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 1R, 6W, 1R, 1W, 5R, 4W, 2R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 12R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 6R, 11W

61- 11W, 6R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 3R, 15W, 3R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 1R, 3W, 1R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 4W, 4R, 12W

62-  12W, 3R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 2W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 2W, 5R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 2R, 7W, 8R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 4R, 5W, 6R, 11W

63- 11W, 6R, 2W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 14R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 1R, 7W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 1R, 3W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 3R, 12W

64- 12W, 3R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 1R, 2W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 1R, 3W, 4R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 3R, 4W, 11R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 3R, 2W, 2R, 1W, 7R, 11W

65- 11W, 7R, 5W, 3R, 1W, 3R, 13W, 3R, 1W, 14R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 3R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 12W

66- 12W, 5R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 3R, 2W, 7R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 12R, 1W, 20R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 7R, 11W

67- 11W, 7R, 5W, 3R, 1W, 19R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 10R, 2W, 2R, 1W, 7R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 4R, 13W

68- 11W, 1R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 7R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 17R, 2W, 3R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 6R, 12W

69- 12W, 6R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 3R, 1W, 16R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 3R, 8W, 4R, 2W, 1R, 2W, 5R, 2W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 6W, 5R, 1W, 1R, 11W

70- 11W, 2R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 7R, 2W, 1R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 1R, 3W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 15R, 1W, 3R, 5W, 7R, 12W

71- 11W, 1R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 9R, 2W, 3R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 2R, 11W

72- 11W, 2R, 2W, 5R, 2W, 7R, 2W, 4R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 4R, 2W, 2R, 1W, 2R, 5W, 6R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 8R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 1R, 11W

73- 11W, 1R, 2W, 5R, 6W, 3R, 1W, 8R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 7R, 5W, 3R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 15R, 1W, 3R, 11W

74-  11W, 4R, 1W, 14R, 2W, 3R, 3W, 2R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 5R, 5W, 8R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 4R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 5R, 1W, 2R, 11W

75- 11W, 2R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 4R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 1R, 4W, 8R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 1R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 14R, 2W, 4R, 11W

76- 11W, 5R, 1W, 14R, 2W, 6R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 7R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 9R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 5R, 1W, 5R, 2W, 2R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 3R, 11W

77- 11W, 4R, 1W, 4R, 1W, 3R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 5R, 1W, 1R, 1W, 10R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 8R, 1W, 2R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 14R, 2W, 5R, 11W

78- 11W, 6R, 2W, 14R, 1W, 4R, 3W, 9R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 11R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 9R, 2W, 3R, 2W, 4R, 11W

79- 11W, 5R, 1W, 14R, 2W, 17R, 5W, 16R, 2W, 13R, 1W, 7R, 11W

80- 11W, 7R, 1W, 12R, 2W, 17R, 1W, 3R, 1W, 18R, 1W, 13R, 1W, 6R, 11W

81- 11W, 6R, 1W, 12R, 1W, 19R, 5W, 13R, 1W, 4R, 2W, 10R, 2W, 7R, 11W

82- 11W, 7R, 2W, 9R, 2W, 4R, 3W, 11R, 1W, 1R, 2W, 2R, 1W, 19R, 1W, 10R, 1W, 7R, 11W

83- 11W, 7R, 1W, 9R, 1W, 7R, 2W, 11R, 7W, 9R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 8R, 1W, 8R, 11W

84- 11W, 8R, 1W, 7R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 24R, 2W, 2R, 1W, 7R, 1W, 8R, 1W, 7R, 11W

85- 11W, 7R, 1W, 7R, 1W, 7R, 1W, 4R, 3W, 20R, 2W, 7R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 7R, 11W

86- 11W, 7R, 2W, 5R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 10R, 3W, 15R, 3W, 6R, 2W, 7R, 1W, 7R, 1W, 7R, 11W

**corrected count is :  11W, 7R, 2W, 5R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 10R, 3W, 15R, 3W, 6R, 2W, 7R, 1W, 6R, 1W, 7R, 11W.  

87- 11W, 7R, 1W, 5R, 1W, 7R, 2W, 10R, 7W, 2R, 7W, 13R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 5R, 1W, 7R, 11W

88- 11W, 7R, 1W, 4R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 18R, 8W, 15R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 5R, 1W, 6R, 11W

89- 11W, 6R, 1W, 4R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 31R, 2W, 11R, 2W, 3R, 2W, 3R, 2W, 6R, 11W

90- 11W, 6R, 1W, 3R, 2W, 3R, 2W, 12R, 2W, 19R, 3W, 10R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 3R, 1W, 6R, 11W

91- 11W, 6R, 1W, 2R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 12R, 4W, 2R, 1W, 7R, 2W, 5R, 2W, 13R, 2W, 3R, 2W, 2R, 1W, 6R, 11W

92- 11W, 6R, 4W, 3R, 2W, 13R, 4W, 4R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 15R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 1R, 1W, 6R, 11W

93- 11W, 6R, 3W, 6R, 2W, 12R, 5W, 3R, 3W, 1R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 3R, 2W, 1R, 2W, 14R, 2W, 12R, 11W

94- 11W, 11R, 2W, 15R, 2W, 6R, 2W, 2R, 5W, 4R, 2W, 16R, 2W, 14R, 11W

95-  11W, 13R, 2W, 13R, 6W, 3R, 2W, 1R, 3W, 2R, 2W, 4R, 3W, 17R, 2W, 10R, 11W

96- 11W, 10R, 2W, 2R, 11W, 5R, 2W, 4R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 2R, 2W, 4R, 4W, 15R, 2W, 12R, 11W

97- 11W, 12R, 1W, 5R, 8W, 11R, 6W, 2R, 2W, 10R, 2W, 9R, 4W, 11R, 11W

98- 11W, 26R, 2W, 27R, 3W, 6R, 4W, 2R, 2W, 11R, 11W

99- 11W, 12R, 4W, 11R, 2W, 24R, 3W, 27R, 11W

100- 11W, 29R, 2W, 21R, 2W, 29R, 11W

101- 11W, 30R, 3W, 17R, 2W, 31R, 11W

102- 11W, 33R, 3W, 11R, 4W, 32R, 11W

103- 11W, 35R, 13W, 35R, 11W

104- 11W, 38R, 6W, 39R, 11W

105- 105W

106 thru 125 - 105 W

For the border or edging of the blanket, I worked 2 rounds of hdc in red spaced evenly around the edge.

Persimmon (free pattern) - Stash Buster Project

One of my sister Lea's friends, Jessie, fell in love with the witch doctor's that I had made for my nephews and she requested one for herself.  So....I got out all of my small balls of leftover yarn....sorted them into piles of somewhat coordinating colors and textures....and then picked out my favorite color combination for the one I was getting ready to make.

These are the colors and textures I was working with.  

The bottom...and the cowl neckline....

The head before being attached...

Starting to add the legs....with one thick one since it's a broken leg....

Then the arms are being added....

Then the ears and the face.....

This photo really reminds me of the cobbler and the elves story.....

The broken leg has been cast....the tail and spikes have been added....

The photo shoot on the porch...

I love this photo too....

Just hanging out....

And one final shot....this is the yarn I had leftover after making Persimmon.  I still have enough to use for another project. 

I enjoy making these little monsters and witch doctors but I never write down the pattern.  Then I started getting requests for them and I figured that I needed to start writing it down otherwise I wouldn't be able to make another one. This is the first time I have recorded the pattern as I made the monster, so I'm offering it up as a FREE PATTERN.  I hope you all enjoy it and if you make one of these, please share a photo.

PERSIMMON - Free Pattern

A variety of scrap yarn....any color....any thickness....you choose

I used a G hook on the WW yarn and an I hook on the really thick, chunky yarn

Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Body

Using chunky yarn and an I hook, make a magic circle

1- ch 1, 6 sc in magic circle, join with a sl st to 1st sc made.  pull magic circle tight.

2- ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with a sl st to 1st sc made.

3- ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat around; join with a sl st to 1st sc made.

4- ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st to 1st sc made.

5 thru 7 - repeat round 4.

8 - ch 1, *sc 2 tog, sc in next st; repeat around; join with a sl st to 1st st made.  fasten off yarn, weave in end.

Cowl

Switch to the bumpy baby yarn and a G hook

1- ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join with a sl st to 1st sc made.

2- ch 2, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around.  fasten off, weave in most of the yarn tail or all of it.  whatever you wish.

Head

Using WW yarn and a G hook, make a magic circle

1- ch 1, work 6 sc, join with a sl st to 1st sc made, pull circle tight.

2- ch 1, work 2 sc in each st around, join with a sl st to 1st sc made.

3- ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with a sl st to 1st sc made.

4- ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in each of the next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with a sl st to 1st sc.

5- ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st to 1st sc.

6 thru 9 - repeat round 5

10- ch 1, *sc 2 tog, sc in each of the next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with a sl st to 1st st made.

11- ch 1, *sc 2 tog, sc in next st; repat from * around, join with a sl st to 1st st made.  fasten off yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing the head to the body.

Stuff the body.

Stuff the head.

Using a yarn needle and the long tail of yarn on the head, sew the head to the body.

Leg 1

With variegated yarn and a G hook,

1- ch 2, work 6 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, join with a sl st to 1st sc.

2- ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st to the 1st sc.

3- ch 1, *sc 2 tog; repeat from * around, join with a sl st to 1st st.

do not fasten off....

ch 12, sl st to the body wherever you want the leg to be positioned, then working back down the 12 chs, sl st in each ch.  fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

Leg 2 (broken leg)

With variegated yarn and a G hook,

1- ch 2, work 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook; join with a sl st to 1st sc.

2- ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st to 1st sc.

3- repeat round 2.

(4 & 5 form the heel)

4- ch 1, sc in next 4 sc, turn.

5- repeat row 4 but do not turn at end of row.  fold the heel in half and sl st to the 1st sc of row 5.

6- ch 1, sc in each sc around; join with a sl st to 1st sc made.  you should have 6 sts but exact count isn't important.

Make sure you stuff the foot as you work these next rounds.

7 thru 12 - repeat round 6

13- ch 1, (sc 2 tog) 3 times, join with a sl st to 1st st made.  ch 3, sl st leg to body wherever you want it positioned.  working back down the chs, sl st in each of the 3 chs, fasten off, weave in end.

Arms (make 2)

With WW yarn and a G hook

1- ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, join with a sl st to 1st sc.

2- ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st to 1st sc.

3- ch 1, (sc 2 tog) 3 times, join with a sl st to 1st st made.  ch 8, sl st to body wherever you want the arm positioned, then sl st in each of the 8 chs back down to the hand.  fasten off.  weave in ends.

Eye

With WW yarn and a G hook

ch 2, work 6 sc in the 2nd ch from hook, join.  fasten off yarn.  leave a long tail for sewing to the head.

with contrasting color of yarn, make a french knot in the center of the eye.

Mouth

with a yarn needle and WW yarn, stitch a mouth on the face.

Ears (make 2)

with WW yarn and a G hook

1- ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook an din each ch across, turn.

2- ch 1, (sc 2 tog) twice, turn.

3- ch 1, sc 2 tog.  fasten off yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.  weave the yarn down the side of the ear loosely, then across the bottom of the ear.  pull yarn tight across the bottom.  sew to the head wherever you want it.  weave in ends.

Tail

with WW yarn and a G hook, make a magic circle

1- ch 1, work 4 sc in the circle, join with a sl st to 1st sc.

2- ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st to 1st sc.

3- ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around.  join with a sl st to 1st sc made.

4- ch 1, sc in each st around.

5- ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around.  join with a sl st to 1st sc made.

6- ch 1, sc in each st around.  join with a sl st to 1st sc made.

7- ch 1, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around.  join with a sl st to 1st sc made.

8 thru 10- repeat round 7.  at the end of round 10, fasten off yarn leaving a long tail for sewing .  stuff the tail and sew it to the body.

Scales

Leaving a long tail for sewing, ch 11.

sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next st, ch 1, sl st down thru the side of the hdc st, sc in next ch, hdc in next st, dc in next st, ch 1, sl st down the side of the dc st, sc in next ch, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tc in next two sts, ch 1, sl st down the side of the tc, fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.  using the yarn tails to sew the scales down the length of the tail.  weave in ends.

Cast

with WW yarn and a G hook

ch 12, join to form a ring.

1- ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st to 1st sc.

2- repeat round 1.

3- ch 1, sc in next 8 sts.

4- ch 1, turn.  sc in next 8 sts.

5- ch 1...do not turn.  sc dec down the side (over the next 2 sts worked in rows 4 & 5), sc in next 4 sts, sc dec over the next 2 sts (as before), sl st in next sc.

6- ch 1, sc dec, sc, sc dec, sc, sc dec, (sc dec) 4 times.  join with a sl st to 1st st made.

7- ch 1, sc, dc, (tc) 5 times, dc, sc, join with a sl st to 1st sc.

8- ch 1, sc in each st around.  join with a sl st to 1st sc.  fasten off.  weave in ends.

AND YOU'RE FINISHED!!!!!

I hope you enjoy my free pattern, but please....don't claim it as your own.  Give credit where credit is due.

Thanks a bunch!

Shelly

Cup Covers and Coasters - Free Pattern (Stash Buster Project)

Yesterday, I had a few spare moments at the pool, so I whipped up a little pattern for Cup Covers and Coasters out of some scrap yarn I had in my yarn bag (which I carry everywhere...just in case).  I have company fairly often and we sit on the porch most of the time.  With it being Summer, I needed a few more cup covers to put over the tops of our coffee cups to keep the bugs away...and...you can never have enough coasters on the end tables, etc., so I made a few more of those too.

 At the end of the day yesterday, I had made 3 cup covers and 6 coasters (2 of each color).

 This photo shows the difference in size between the coasters and the covers.  The cover is at the top of the photo.

And here's an up close photo so you can see the detail.

Cup Covers and Coasters - Free Pattern

Scrap yarn of your choice - I had small balls of these colors in Caron's Simply Soft yarn

Size H crochet hook

Yarn needle for weaving in ends

1- starting with a magic circle, ch 2, work 9 hdc in circle, pull yarn to tighten circle, join with a sl st to 1st hdc made. (9 hdc)

2- ch 2, work 2 hdc in same st and in each st around, join with a sl st to 1st hdc made. (18 hdc)

3- ch 2, work 2 hdc in same st, hdc in next st, *work 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st; repeat from * around, join with a sl st to 1st hdc. (27 hdc)

4- ch 2, work 2 hdc in same st, work 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 2 sts; repeat from * around, join with a sl st to 1st hdc. (36 hdc)

**NOTE:  if you are making coasters, skip round 5 and go on to round 6***

5- ch 2, work 2 hdc in same st, work 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts; repeat from * around, join with a sl st to 1st hdc.  (45 hdc)

6- (edging round) ch 3, *sl st in next st, ch 3; repeat from * around, join with a sl st in base of first ch 3, fasten off, weave in ends.  

Fashion Scarf - Free Pattern (Stash Buster Project)

One of the projects I have been working on (while Small T was away at Nursing Camp) was a black scarf/shawl that she could wear with the point resting on her chest and then wrapped around her neck.  I chose to do this in black because she doesn't have a black one in her closet.  It was also nice that I was using a skein of yarn out of my stash, making this a Stash Buster Project.  I've included a few photos below of the scarf.

Here is Small T modeling the scarf.  See seems to like it if you go by her smile.  :)

 Last Fall/Winter, she started wearing scarves all the time, and I think she looks good in them.

Here's the scarf...folded up.  Can you see the beads along the edge?

Here's the scarf spread out.  It's pretty good sized.  I was afraid that I would either get it too big or too small.  This scarf can be easily adjusted to fit your needs by just adding or deleting rows.

Small T helped me choose the beads.  I was looking for a metallic bead but hoping to use a slate gray or black.  She suggested these instead.

And here's the detail of where I sewed the bead at each row juncture.

It's hard to describe it on paper, and by showing you a photo, you know exactly where I put the beads.

Fashion Scarf - Free Pattern

1 skein of Caron's Simply Soft yarn (I used black)

size H hook

yarn needle for weaving in ends

1 bag of metallic beads or any beads you choose

sewing needle with a small enough eye to fit through the bead hole

thread that matches your yarn color

ch 11.  join to form a ring.

1- ch 8, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st, ch 5, sk 2 sts, dc in next st.  turn.

2-  ch 8, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st, ch 5, sk 4 sts, sl st in next st, ch 5, sk 2 sts, dc in next st.  turn.

3- ch 8, sk 2 sts, sl st in next st, *ch 5, sk 4 sts, sl st in next st; repeat from * across to end of row, ending with a ch 5, sk 2 sts, dc in next st. turn.

4 through 55- repeat row 3.

at the end of row 55, fasten off.  weave in ends. 

NOTE:  I stopped at 55 rows.  You can work more or less rows, depending on the size of scarf that you want.

To add the beads, thread a sewing needle with matching yarn and sew a bead at the juncture of each row along the edge of the scarf.  I did not sew each bead individually.  I carried my thread through the yarn to the next place to add a bead, making sure not to pull the thread too tight.  I put the beads along the two side edges but not across the top of the scarf so they wouldn't be scratchy along the neck.

If you have any questions with this pattern, please feel free to ask. 

Happy crocheting!!!

Arch Stitch Baby Blanket - Free Pattern

I'm so happy to be adding another free pattern to my blog today.  This one is called the Arch Stitch Baby Blanket.  As with the Slant Stitch Baby Blanket, I cannot take credit for inventing the Arch Stitch.  I did, however, take the stitch and use it to make something.  I take credit for making the blanket pattern, but nothing else.

 Here's a little preview of a corner stitch.

 The folded up blanket.

 The whole blanket laid out on my sofa.

And a general photo of the arch stitch pattern.

I hope you all enjoy the blanket pattern and I would love to see a photo of what you make with it.  :)  Remember, please give credit by linking back to my blog if you share this pattern with anyone.  Please don't claim it as your own.  Thanks.

Happy Crocheting!

Arch Stitch Baby Blanket - Free Pattern

Bernat Baby Sport yarn - about 8 oz.  (I used pale yellow for this blanket)

Size G crochet hook

yarn needle for weaving in ends

(multiple of 5 + 3 chs)

ch 123 loosely (use a size bigger hook if necessary)

Row 1 (right side) :  dc in 4th ch from hook, ch 2, sk 2 chs, *dc in next 3 chs, ch 2, sk 2 chs; repeat from * across to last 2 chs, dc in last 2 chs.

Row 2 :  ch 1, turn; sc in 1st dc, 5 dc in 1st ch 2 sp, *sk next dc, sc in next dc, 5 dc in next ch 2 sp; repeat from * across, sc in top of beg ch.

Row 3 : ch 4, turn; sk 1st dc, dc in next 3 dc, *ch 2, sk next 3 sts, dc in next 3 dc; repeat from * across to last 2 sts, ch 1, dc in last sc.

Row 4 : ch 3, turn; 2 dc in same st, sk next dc, sc in next dc, *5 dc in next ch 2 sp, sk next dc, sc in next dc; repeat from * across, 3 dc in 3rd ch of beg ch 4.

Row 5 : ch 3, turn; dc in next dc, ch 2, sk next 3 sts, *dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, sk next 3 sts; repeat from * across to last dc, dc in last dc, dc in top of beg ch.

Repeat Rows 2 - 5 for pattern until 61 rows have been made; do NOT finish off.

Edging:

Round 1 : ch 1, do NOT turn work, working down side of blanket, sc evenly down the side of the blanket, work 3 sc in corner st, sc evenly along bottom of blanket, work 3 sc in corner st, sc evenly up the side of the blanket, work 3 sc in corner st, sc evenly along the top edge of blanket, work 3 sc in corner, join with a sl st to 1st sc.

Round 2 :  ch 1, sc in each sc around, working 3 sc in the center stitch of each corner st, join with a sl st to 1st sc.

Round 3 : ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, ch 2, sk 2 sts, *dc in next 3 sts, ch 2, sk 2 sts; repeat from * to corner, work (3dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the middle st of the corner st, ch 2, sk 2 sts; repeat from * to next corner, work (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in middle st of the corner st, ch 2, sk 2 sts; repeat from * to next corner, work (3 dc, ch 2, 3dc) in middle st of the corner st, ch 2, sk 2 sts; repeat from * to next corner, work (3dc, ch 2, 3dc) in middle st of last corner st, ch 2, sk 2 sts, sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch 3.

**NOTE:  you may have to either sk an extra st or one less st in order to make the pattern work when it comes time to work the corner sts.  This is OKAY.  It does not affect the appearance of the blanket.  Trust me.  The pattern did not always match up with the stitch count when I worked this row.  Just make it work.

Round 4 :  sl st into the next dc, ch 1, sc in same st, work 5 dc in next ch 2 sp, *sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 5dc in next ch 2 sp; repeat from * to corner ch 2 sp, work 10 dc in corner ch 2 sp, repeat from * to next corner, work 10 dc in corner ch 2 sp; repeat from * to next corner ch 2 sp, work 10 dc in corner ch 2 sp; repeat from * to last corner ch 2 sp, work 10 dc in corner ch 2 sp, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc, 5 dc in next ch 2 sp, join with a sl st to beg sc of round.  fasten off yarn, weave in all ends.

Cup Cover - Free Pattern (Stash Buster Project)

This is a quick and easy little pattern that I whipped up the other day.  You see, I drink my coffee on the front porch each and every morning and things tend to blow into my cup.  I'm always fishing something (bugs) out of it and it drives me nuts.  So...I figured, why not make something to cover my cup so I don't have to keep doing this.  This is what I came up with.

 This is what it looks like flat.  Yes, I know that the outer decorative edge curls in a bit.  I wanted it to do that.  So it's ok.

This is what it looks like on my favorite cup.

Since I used some yarn out of my stash of leftover yarn balls, this is a Stash Buster Project as well as being something useful.  I think that's great!

Cup Cover - Free Pattern

Small amount of yarn - I used some Caron's Simply Soft yarn in a light purple color

Size H or I hook - you choose

yarn needle for weaving in ends

NOTE:  beg ch 3 counts as a dc throughout pattern.

ch 4, join to form a ring.

1- ch 3, work 15 dc in ring. join with a sl st to 3rd ch of beg ch 3. (16)

2- ch 3, dc in same st.  work 2 dc in each st around.  join with a sl st to beg ch 3. (32)

3- ch 3, dc in same st.  dc in next st.  *2 dc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * around.  join with a sl st to beg ch 3.  (48)

4- ch 3, dc in same st.  dc in each of the next 2 sts, *2 dc in next st, dc in each of the next 2 sts; repeat from * around.  join with a sl st to beg ch 3.  (64)  **do not fasten off yarn**

Decorative edge:

Use any decorative edge that you want, but I used a shell border.  

1- ch 1, *sc in same st, sk 2 sts, work 5 dc in next st; repeat from * around.  At the end of the round, you will end with sk 1 st, join with a sl st to beg ch 1.

Free Pattern - Chenille Look Baby Blanket

I've finally finished the free pattern that I've been working on.  (I actually finished a couple of days ago, but I've been living at the pool the past five days.)  I'm calling this the Chenille Look Baby Blanket.  The texture reminds me of the chenille bedspreads from my childhood.  The blanket feels so lush and plush when it's finished and it will be a really warm blanket for those cold, Winter months.

 I tried every camera I own and I couldn't get a decent photo with any of them.  So...this is the best that I can do.  It's a full length photo of the blanket.

 A close-up shot of the texture and the edging.

 The blanket folded up on my lap.  Just because.

And one final texture shot.

Chenille Look Baby Blanket - Free Pattern

Lion Brand Pound of Love yarn (two colors - White and Pastel Green) ((I used half or less of each skein)

Size J and size K crochet hook

yarn needle for weaving in ends

With the White yarn and the size K crochet hook, ch 90 + 2

Working with size J crochet hook from now on, 

1- dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across.

2- ch 2, turn.  working in front loops only, sc in each st across.

3- ch 3, turn.  working in back loops only, dc in each st across.

4 thru 57- repeat rows 2 and 3 for pattern, ending with a row 3.

at the end of row 57, fasten off yarn.

Note:  The front of the blanket is the side where the front loops of stitches are unworked.

Using the Pastel Green yarn and the size J crochet hook, attach yarn on the first row of unworked loops.  Reverse sc in each unworked loop across.  At the end of the row, fasten off yarn.

**Reverse sc in each row of unworked loops for the entire length of the blanket.**

Using the yarn needle, weave in all yarn ends before starting the blanket border.

Blanket border:  Reverse sc evenly around the blanket, working in the front loops of each st.  Fasten off yarn, weave in ends.

***As always, please don't claim my pattern as your own.  Please link back to my blog and give me credit.  Please don't sell my pattern but feel free to make this blanket for giving or selling.  I don't mind.  The only thing that's "mine" is the pattern, not what you make with it.  :)  With this said, "Happy Crocheting!!!"

Double V Baby Blanket - Free Pattern

Today, I'm sharing my latest free pattern.  It's called the Double V Baby Blanket.

I needed a light weight, airy blanket and this is what I came up with.

Here's a photo of the entire blanket.

And here's a close-up view of the stitch detail.

This is an easy pattern and works up quickly.  If you can do the following stitches : ch, dc, and sc, then you will have no problem at all.

Double V Baby Blanket - Free Pattern

Bernat Baby Sport yarn in Pale Blue (I had a big skein and used less than 1/3 of it.)

size H crochet hook

yarn needle for weaving in ends

special stitch : Double V - work (dc, ch 2, dc, ch 2, dc) in the same stitch.

ch 106.

1- in 7th ch from hook, work Double V, *sk 4 chs, work Double V in next ch, repeat from * across until there are 3 chs left, sk 2 chs, dc in last ch.

2- ch 3, turn.  *work Double V in the center dc of the Double V in the previous row, repeat from * across, dc in the top ch of the turning ch.

3 through 40 - repeat row 2.

at the end of row 40, you are ready to start the edging or border, ch 1, then sc evenly around the edge of the blanket, putting 3 sc in each corner st.  work 2 rows of sc for the edging, then finish off, weave in ends.  that's it.  super easy and lovely to look at.

***Note:  Please don't claim this pattern as your own.  If you would like to make a blanket off this pattern, please feel free to do so.  You may sell these blankets, but if you are asked, please give me credit for the pattern.  Thanks a bunch!***

Pretty In Pink Sweater - Free Pattern

Did you enjoy the "teaser" from yesterday?  I hope so.

It was a swatch from my Pretty In Pink Sweater, which is my new free pattern.

Pretty In Pink Sweater - Free Pattern
size 3 months

Bernat Baby Sport yarn

H & I crochet hooks
1 pink button
needle and thread for sewing on the button
yarn needle for weaving in ends

with the I hook, ch 45.
switch to the H hook.

1- hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across.

2- ch 2, turn.  hdc in 1st two sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 3 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * across, ending with 1 hdc in each of the last 3 sts.  (54)

3- ch 2, turn.  hdc in 1st three sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 4 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * across, ending with 1 hdc in each of the last 4 sts. (64)

4- ch 2, turn.  hdc in 1st four sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * across, ending with 1 hdc in each of the last 4 sts.  (74)

5- ch 2, turn.  hdc in 1st five sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * across, ending with 1 hdc in each of the last 4 sts. (84)

6- ch 2, turn.  hdc in 1st six sts, 2 hdc in next st, *hdc in next 7 sts, 2 hdc in next st; repeat from * across, ending with 1 hdc in each of the last 4 sts.  (94)

7- ch 2, turn.  hdc in first 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next.  ch 6.  sk 20 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st.  (hdc in next 6 sts, 2 hdc in next) twice, hdc in next 5 sts, 2 hdc in next st, ch 6, sk 20 sts, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 6 sts) twice.  (62 sts plus 12 chs)

8- ch 2, turn.  hdc in the first 10 sts, 2 hdc in next st, (hdc in next 11 sts, 2 hdc in next st) 5 times, hdc in last 2 sts. (80)

9- ch 2, turn.  hdc in the first 11 sts, 2 hdc in next st, (hdc in next 12 sts, 2 hdc in next st) 5 times, hdc in last 2 sts. (86)

10 through 21 - ch 2, turn.  hdc in each st.

22- ch 3, turn.  (sk 2 sts, 5 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, 1 dc in next st) repeat across ending with 1 dc in each of the last 2 sts.

23- ch 3, turn.  work 3 dc in next st.  (sk 2 sts, work 1 dc in next st, sk 2 sts, work 5 dc in next st) repeat across ending with 3 dc in last st.

24- repeat row 22.

25- repeat row 23.

26.  ch 2, turn.  hdc in each st across.  DO NOT FASTEN OFF YARN....we are starting the edging.
ch 3, hdc evenly up the front of the sweater, ch 2, sc in each st around the neckline, ch 2, work 2 hdc, ch 2 (this forms the buttonhole), then hdc evenly down the edge, ch 3, join with a sl st to the 1st hdc of the bottom row.  fasten off, weave in ends.  sew on button.

Sleeves (two of them)
1- attach yarn in middle stitch of armhole bottom, ch 1, work 31 sc evenly around the armhole, join with a sl st to beg ch 1.

2 through 13- ch 2, turn.  work 1 hdc in each st around, join with a sl st to 2nd ch of beg ch 2.

14- ch 2, turn.  hdc in next 13 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 14 sts, hdc2tog, join with a sl st to 2nd ch of beg ch2.

15- ch 2, turn.  hdc in next 12 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 13 sts, hdc2tog, join with a sl st to 2nd ch of beg ch2.

16- ch 2, turn.  hdc in next 11 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 12 sts, hdc2tog, join with a sl st to 2nd ch of beg ch2.

17- ch 2, turn.  hdc in next 10 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 11 sts, hdc2tog, join with a sl st to 2nd ch of beg ch2.

18- ch 2, turn.  hdc in next 9 sts, hdc2tog, hdc in next 10 sts, hdc2tog, join with a sl st to 2nd ch of beg ch2.

19- ch 1, turn.  sc in each st around, join with a sl st to beg ch 1.  (22)  fasten off, weave in ends.

*As always, please don't steal my pattern and claim it as your own.  Please give credit where credit is due.  Thanks so much!*